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Chef Dhanapol "Oak" Marprasert is a well-known figure on New York’s Thai scene, moving seamlessly from recreations of street classics to modern interpretations. His spark in the kitchen, however, came from a humble source: his mother.
Marprasert was born in Washington, D.C., into a Thai army attaché family, which later moved to Bangkok's Samsen neighborhood. After his father’s passing, his mother supported him and his two siblings by always keeping food on the table, with an eager Marprasert always ready to assist. To this day, her spirit stays with him. “Whenever I cook, I always think about my mother,” remarked Marprasert.
After graduating from culinary school in Bangkok, Marprasert returned to the States, landing in Tennessee in 2014. He began his career in a Thai restaurant, starting as a dishwasher and working his way up the ladder. Before long, he set his sights on New York, eager to bring his cooking to a larger audience.
"The allure of New York City was undeniable. I saw it as an unparalleled opportunity to bring my unique interpretation of Thai cuisine to a global stage,” he said. “I thrive on healthy competition, and the vibrant culinary landscape of the 'Big Apple' felt like the perfect fit."
He started a business in Queens, drawn to the local scene and its "demand for truly authentic Thai food, much like what you'd find in Thailand itself." He and his wife, Jiraporn “Jina” Tisopa, have since met that demand, first with the affordable street eatery Makin in Middle Village in 2020, and then with a contemporary take on the cuisine at Astoria’s Kam Rai Thai.
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Through Kam Rai Thai, chef Marprasert journeys all around the region, inviting diners along for the ride. There is a healthy dose of history on the menu, as the coconut-rich curry dish, Khoa Soi Gai Confit, tells the tale of Chinese Muslims who settled in northern Thailand. At the same time, steaming bowls of boat noodles nod to the southern city of Ayutthaya. Marprasert also weaves in his personal interests, specifically his love of barbecue, which makes it to the menu. A passion picked up during his time in Tennessee, Marprasert has been known to charcoal-smoke whole chickens and pork belly in the restaurant’s backyard, prepared in an earthenware vessel known as Ong Mangkorn or dragon jar. In fact, his grilled marinated pork jowl slathered in their housemade zeed hot sauce won him “Best in Show” at this year's all-out barbecue fest, Pig Island NYC.
Following a successful foray into Manhattan this past June, chef Marprasert expands to a second location of Kam Rai Thai at the new Time Out Market, opening in Union Square this month. Top hits from the eatery will moonlight here, including the slow-cooked Khao Soi with Chicken Confit and the popular southern Thai dish, the Hat Yai Fried Chicken with sweet chili and sticky rice. Oh, and the Crab Meat Fried Rice with sweet crab, scallions and jasmine fried rice? You'll find it here, too. Chef Marprasert spreads his love of the 'cue with his award-winning pork jowl served inside the steaming pork buns. Part food, part cultural immersion, Kam Rai Thai furthers chef Marprasert's mission of telling the story of Thailand through its food. And what a delicious tale it is.