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Back in 2016, Michael Fadem, Gavin Compton and Marie Tribouilloy looked at an old garage in Bushwick and saw an opportunity. After much sprucing, they named it Ops, introducing it as a wine bar for the neighborhood. Yet, Fadem’s passion for all things pizza, specifically his perfected tangy and airy sourdough base, was strong enough to gain a following and flip the business model on its head. However, its wine program remained strong, so much so that it received a semifinalist designation from the James Beard Foundation. Ten-plus years later, the same team is doing it all again, this time in Manhattan.
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On June 30, Ops opened its doors to the East Village. Notably bigger than the original, the 60-seat pizzeria is still just as charming with white-washed brick walls and wooden booths and nooks, similar to its sister space. New features include a metal, L-shaped bar and floor-to-ceiling windows that open to the street and its streetside dining area with 20 more seats.
Several of Ops greatest hits have made their way to Manhattan, notably the Rojo pizza with its blanket of mortadella and the all-day onion party that is the Cicero pie. However, with a wood-fired oven left over from the previous tenant and the addition of an electric Pizza Master at his disposal, Fadem has clearly taken the time to experiment. Still staying true to his sourdough base, Fadem leaned on his St. Louis roots to roll out a thin-crust line of “Tavernettas” pizzas, exclusive to the new locale. With just three in the rotation, options include the Classic cheese cut into tiny squares, the Pissaladière with caramelized onions, black olives and a whole fleet of anchovies and the Hawaiian with coppa, Calabrian chilis, and, you guessed it, pineapple.
Beyond pies, the kitchen doles out lightly battered fritto misto and suppli for starters. Sausage and hefty squares of mozzarella lasagna broiled hard and dusted with even more shavings of Parmesan round out the mains. Of course, it wouldn’t be Ops without a few desserts, and the new location delivers with a flourless chocolate cake, panna cotta and a soft-serve sundae on offer.
Much like its sister restaurant, wine is most certainly a feature. Behind the bar, Ops 2.0 will carry over its signature wine program by the glass and bottle, while the general manager of the Bushwick location, Cedric Obando, will tend to the cocktail department.
So grab a glass and say hello to the new Ops.