26 Seats

Pray for interesting conversations at the other 25 seats in this half-pint of a restaurant, because you’re bound to hear them. The waitstaff navigates the cramped quarters with cheer, displaying more zip than you’ll find in the food. The pissaladière, with caramelized onions atop a flaky crust, could have spent a few more minutes in the oven, and the main dishes—chicken in mustard sauce, bland striped bass—were too timid. Side dishes, such as moist sweet-corn cake and a pavé with tissue-thin potato slices, fare better, as does the big, punchy salad of Roquefort, endive and apple. Profiteroles wade in a pool of crème anglaise.