718 (CLOSED)

Diners at 718 have a slightly stunned look—they can’t believe

how exceptional and economical the place is. Its high standards have made 718 one of the best restaurants in Queens. Stylish Parisian decor—half-moon banquettes, spangly chandeliers—is a fitting backdrop to inspired, modern takes on tuna (sesame-kissed, sushi-grade and grilled), duck (fruit-brightened terrine, velvety grilled breast) and crème brûlée (in three flavors). Brunch and late-night tapas are equally enticing. It is at once a bar, a warm-weather café, a brunch hang, a late-night tapas haunt, a weekly belly-dancing-and-salsa club and (crucially) a dependable kitchen. Picky eaters are sated by chef Alain Allaire’s savory braised short ribs topped with foie gras, or his rosy duck breast with hazelnut-studded cauliflower puree. And Queens’ dishiest dessert isn’t Ben Faremo’s Italian ices in Corona. It’s 718 pastry chef Raphaël Sutter’s vanilla, chocolate and coffee crème brûlée trio. Eat that, 212.