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Yes, it has a killer wine list, but the restaurant’s initials don’t stand for appellation d’origine contrôlée. The moniker derives instead from the title of a popular French gastro-film, L’aile ou la cuisse (“the wing or the thigh”). You’ll find an extensive menu, from breakfast and lunch (pastries, croque-monsieur) to dinner standards (duck confit, moules frites). Salmon tartare is a comfort food of sorts, served with homemade potato chips and cocktail sauce, while hanger steak is lightened by a sauce of wine, shallots and port.