A cartload of kitsch—chili pepper lights, sombreros, dream catchers and ceramic cacti—makes the dining room come off like a Chevy’s in coyote’s clothing, but the 200-plus-selection beer list shows that some thought went into this cantina. Complete with Beer Advocate ratings, the quirky descriptions (“fruity, light and strong—like a gay gymnast”) are an amusing read, while the gimmicky menu hits all the guilty-pleasure spots of an East Coaster’s idea of Southwestern fare. The sweetness of the deep-fried corn nuggets blends nicely with a smoky, creamy chipotle sauce, and mini tacos, stuffed with spicy chicken, punch the palate with crunch and heat. Blue-corn enchiladas envelop sharply seasoned ground beef, while a grande burrito holds moist and salty shreds of pork.
