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Chef Salvatore Corea (Cacio e Pepe) channels his wildest impulses into this daring trattoria, decorated in a riot of emerald green. As outrageous-sounding as the dishes are, they’re mercifully restrained in execution. The cocoa sauce served with a seared-shrimp starter is balanced and not at all sweet. A fine eggplant Parmesan offers a traditional timbale alongside a modern version (cold whipped eggplant mousse beside a Parmesan chip and a nugget of fried mozzarella). Desserts are equally well conceived: a pear strudel with creamy Gorgonzola gelato is like a cheese course in reverse.