Amata

Steep prices and drab decor (beige walls, red plaid banquettes) are forgiven at Fiorini. Golosi—tender spinach-ricotta dumplings—luxuriate in a four-cheese sauce, while dishes such as a whole grilled branzino are studies in simplicity. Desserts could use more finesse (a premade chocolate mousse cake arrived too cold from the fridge), but the gaffe shouldn’t add up to much: The nipped and tucked crowd—one neighboring twosome shared a couple of salads for dinner—seems to be watching its weight.