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American Cut

Restaurants, Steakhouse Tribeca
Recommended
3 out of 5 stars
 (Photograph: Erica Gannett)
1/5
Photograph: Erica GannettCaesar salad at American Cut
 (Photograph: Erica Gannett)
2/5
Photograph: Erica GannettTomahawk for two at American Cut
 (Photograph: Erica Gannett)
3/5
Photograph: Erica GannettLatkes at American Cut
 (Photograph: Erica Gannett)
4/5
Photograph: Erica GannettPastrami-spiced rib eye at American Cut
 (Photograph: Erica Gannett)
5/5
Photograph: Erica GannettAmerican Cut

Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

Friendly warning! We're working hard to be accurate. But these are unusual times, so please check that venues remain open.

New Yorkers pride themselves on playing it cool with celebrities; to stroll past Beyoncé and baby Blue Ivy without breaking stride is a badge of honor. So when our hometown chefs nab screen time, it’s customary not to fawn. In a city brimming with kitchen rock stars, it takes a lot more than a Food Network show to attract attention.

At American Cut, Iron Chef Marc Forgione isn’t turning heads so much as laying down a safe bet. Unlike his other recent debut—Khe-Yo, the city’s first Laotian hot spot—his brassy Tribeca steakhouse delivers more of the same to a city already pumped up with marbled meat and Barolo. A spin-off of his Atlantic City original, it’s a playpen for high-rolling carnivores, suffused with wafting scents of singed fat and smoke-laced bourbon. The vast Art Deco space glimmers and glows, with shiny inlaid marble below, and brass chandeliers above. Burnished rosewood tables big enough for a poker game await hedge-funders eager to go all in on beef and booze.

The menu caters to lily gilding, inviting you to top any of its wet- or dry-aged steaks with bacon ($6), foie gras ($18) or an entire Singapore-style lobster ($27). If you’re keen on embellishments, you’ll want the bone-in rib eye that’s Katz-ified into a smoky, spice-crusted pastrami steak topped with caraway butter ($44).

Simplicity also earns its keep in this temple of gluttony. Chopped tableside, Caesar salad ($14) inspired by the Tijuana original impeccably balances sharp Parm and creamy yolk. An unadorned Creekstone rib eye for two is striped with quivering fat and cloaked in a Maldon-flecked char as spectacularly crunchy as a Pringle. The steak joins Forgione’s signature hairdo as one of the better tomahawks in NYC, but at $135, it better.

Mostly underwhelming sides sometimes show the grace of modesty in a restaurant dripping with excess. Thinly sliced potatoes ($10) forged into a fancy brick are dressed with dry-aged beef fat and lardon. But the showy spuds aren’t as good as a humbler stack of crisp, tender latkes ($10) scattered with shards of fried chicken skin.

With its swaggering more-is-more ethos, American Cut gladly fosters the kind of reckless machismo that leads to wicked hangovers and a tinge of buyer’s remorse. Its fat-wallet fare offers some decent payouts, but in the end, a meal here feels like paying for a trip to Vegas and winding up in Atlantic City.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Meal highlights: Caesar salad, crab cake, pastrami-spiced rib eye, tomahawk rib eye for two, latkes, sunchoked spinach

Behind the bar: The cocktail menu features amplified takes on classics, like a Negroni in which each component is aged in a wine barrel, or the signature old-fashioned whose glass is infused with maple smoke.

Vibe: A new power-meal mecca where “one more drink?” is a rhetorical question

Cocktail chatter: Custom chandeliers modeled after the Chrysler Building scream Art Deco, while black banquettes inspired by Sid Vicious’s leather jacket add rock & roll undertones.

Soundcheck: Boisterous as a craps table

By: Daniel S. Meyer

Posted:

Details

Address: 363 Greenwich St
NY
10013
Cross street: between Franklin and Harrison Sts
Transport: Subway: 1 to Franklin St
Price: Average main course: $37. AmEx, Disc, MC, V
Contact:
Opening hours: Daily 5:30–11pm
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