Angelo and Maxie’s (CLOSED)

At Angelo and Maxie’s, steak is served with a smile and a refreshing lack of seriousness. The Roquefort-topped filet mignon could please (and feed) Fred Flintstone and Nigella Lawson; it’s nearly as buttery-soft as the accompanying vat of creamed spinach. The waiter assembles a fine steak tartare, and the shrimp in the shrimp cocktail are juicy and firm. Although dessert seems foolhardy after this caloric wallow, the belt-busting black-and-white cheesecake and two-story sundae will leave you blissfully comatose. As New York steakhouse bills go, the damage here is minimal.