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Apartment 138 is the drunk texter of restaurants: dependable, unfussy and ready for you even though it’s way past midnight. A sidewalk chalkboard announces fancier fare, but as the nondescript name of this rambunctious Smith Street destination makes clear, comfort food is the order of the day—or small hours of the dawn. It’s the kind of place where a basement game room beckons (pool, foosball, Ms. Pacman), as do a comfortable garden and a killer grilled-cheese panini with chorizo and peppers. Indulge its classier aspirations and you’ll enjoy serviceable pastas and salads. Better to dive into a juicy, well-cooked burger or a crisp, largely apportioned side of creamy mac and cheese.