The domed dining room and its oversized brass chandeliers here are trussed up with garden trompe l’oeil and pagoda paintings. The food incorporates Asian techniques and flavors (ginger, tempura, bok choy) with seasonal Western ingredients (halibut, microgreens, truffle cream). Rather than subtle, the upshot can be messy, with conflicting tastes lingering on plates too heavily sauced with the likes of cilantro coulis and carrot and ginger reduction. Still, the $64 three-course prix fixe—which includes a larger-than-life Vahlrona soufflé and other desserts—represents excellent value in a sea of expense.
Plaza Athénée, 37 E 64th St
|Cross street:||between Madison and Park Aves|
|Opening hours:||Mon 6:30–10am; Tue–Sat 6:30–10am, noon–2:30pm, 6–10pm; Sun 11:30am–2:30pm|
|Transport:||Subway: F to Lexington Ave–63rd St|
|Price:||Average main course: $30. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V|
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