Watching Arirang’s lightning-fast chefs slice, dice and cook filet mignon, shrimp and sea scallops at the communal hibachi tables is entertaining enough to justify a ferry ride. The excellent seafood and steak are genuine attractions even without the pyrotechnics. Don’t overlook the sushi in this hullabaloo of hot stuff: Even diners wary of raw fish can try the Bay Ridge roll (salmon, asparagus and cream cheese—deep fried). Whatever you do, if you’re over 12 or painfully shy, don’t tell the staff it’s your birthday. You’ll find yourself in the middle of a disco-ball light show while the staff sings an odd version of “Happy Birthday” and makes you throw your arms in the air and wave ’em like you just don’t care.