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When it comes to food, New York has fully embraced culture crossing: Jewish-tinged ramen bowls from Ivan Orkin, Swedish-inflected soul food from Marcus Samuellson, and now this French-accented spin-off of Japanophile-loved kaiseki mainstay Kyo-Ya. Chefs Shuji Furukawa (Kyo-Ya) and Takashi Igarashi (Kajitsu) make a west-bound shift with hybrid dishes like a quinoa-risotto bouillabaisse with yakishimo fish, a sea urchin consommé and a roasted-kamo confit stuffed in phyllo with black truffle and a beet-plum sauce. The 40-seat space also speaks to both cultures, with former tenant the Barrel’s concave cedarwood ceiling preserved alongside shoji-screened windows and imported Japanese tiles used on the bar’s backsplash.