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Tackling an iron platter of sizzling meat at this LES Argentine eatery requires some vigor. Prime yourself with a glass of malbec and exquisitely flaky empanadas nestling a hearty beef-and-olive filling. Then go for the earthy skirt steak—red as a plum inside and singing with garlicky chimichurri sauce. The low-lit, brick-and-wood bistro may appear urban when compared with the rustic grill houses of Buenos Aires, but the waiters, transfixed by the televised futbol at the tiny bar, are textbook porteño.