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A Belgian eatery can pretty much be judged by the quality of its beer, mussels and fries. This subterranean space on the Upper East Side is no exception: The brasserie menu focuses on classics, and so should you. A perfect meal consists of the delicious Grimbergen brown ale served in a distinctive Chimay goblet, delectable Malay mussels (sweet and small) in a coconut-and-curry–scented broth, and a portion of meaty golden fries with chili aioli, mayonnaise and ketchup for dipping. The casual space—with its globe-shaped sconces and vaguely medieval plaster wall with coat-of-arms moldings—encourages lingering.
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