Yiddish-talking Einat Admony solidified her status as the doyenne of homey Middle Eastern fare with her harissa-spiced hits Balaboosta and Taïm. Now the Iranian-Yemenite chef gives her native cuisine another highbrow twist at this white-walled New Israeli spot. From an open kitchen, Admony dispatches Sephardic plates like goat-cheese knafeh with herb salad; a kibbe-arancini hybrid with spiced yogurt and shaved feta; and lamb shank in Manischewitz reduction with chickpeas and labna. For dessert she churns Moroccan mint tea into gelato and gives falafel the sweet treatment, padded with chocolate and hawaij cream. In the center of the dining room, a 20-foot-long bar spotlights small-batch and natural wines, including selections from Admony's hometown of Tel Aviv.