Bar Tabac has become the anchor of Smith Street’s thriving French expat scene. On Bastille Day, the café hosts a pétanque tournament; every day, it aims to re-create the bonhomie of those Parisian hangouts that sell cigarettes and lottery tickets. A foosball table near the entrance and the small pot of Dijon mustard on each table are nice touches, but the food is what counts. At $5 apiece, the “bistro bites” (skewered scallops, merguez, snails, etc.) are a good way to start. Perfectly salted frites are crisp outside and moist inside, and you can even get a nicely grilled shell steak on the side.