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Traditional Moroccan fare mixes with a bit of France at Barbes, named for the North African neighborhood in Paris and decorated with hanging Moroccan fixtures and an oversize palm tree. Kebabs of cumin-and-saffron-spiced lamb or marinated chicken and shrimp jump-start a meal that might continue with bistro fare like duck confit and steak frites, or Moroccan choices like rack of lamb or tagines of chicken or fish. The hummus is particularly fluffy and flavorful.
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