The team behind Ernesto’s has gone underground with Bartolo, a subterranean Madrid-style taverna built for long nights lingering over tapas and Spanish wine. Chef Ryan Bartlow leans on his years spent cooking in Spain, turning out a menu with hits including anchovies on pan de cristal, oxtail braised in red wine and whole roasted suckling lamb. The room is richly layered with dark wood and marble, making it feel like you’ve stepped back into the old world. It’s a family project, run alongside his wife and sister-in-law, and the warmth shows. If the Lower East Side Ernesto’s is Bartlow’s Basque love letter, Bartolo is his ode to Madrid: soulful and built for sharing.
The vibe: Low ceilings, stone and wood give the place a lived-in feel. The snug six-seat bar is the most romantic spot, but the two distinct dining rooms also offer an intimate place to share small plates.
The food: Start with tapas—anchovies, fried shrimp and Iberico ham are hits here—then share salads, a chilled salmorejo soup and bacalao with peppers and tomato.
The drinks: The wine list is nearly entirely Spanish, including some rare finds you won’t see elsewhere in New York. Look for the Vino de Pasto, unfortified “pasture wines” from the traditional land of sherry.
Time Out tip: If you really want to do Bartolo right, preorder the suckling pig or lamb. They’ll need two weeks’ notice, but nothing else captures the tavern spirit better than an entire pig delivered to your table.