The pastel-orange cheese at this East Village comfort-food joint may seem innocent, but it packs a tangy punch thanks to a blend of sautéed garlic and shallots, and a hit of spicy Cajun seasoning. Chef Meg Grace Larcom presses the base of Grafton white cheddar and Abita Amber lager through a chinois sieve to achieve a velvety texture. Smeared on two chubby, salt-dusted soft pretzels, it’s one of the menu’s simplest homages to the American South. $9.
Weary of the ubiquitous artisanal cheese board at other plaid-shirt-and-mason-jar Brooklyn bars, co-owners Justin Olsen and Patrick Britton set out to create a low-key cheese dish to serve at this laid-back tavern. Their variant displays a coarse texture, studded with nubby bits of pulverized cheddar (farmhouse white and yellow) and bound by a savory combo of Worcestershire sauce, roasted garlic and a pour of IPA. It’s tasty eaten straight up with a half sleeve of Ritz Crackers, but best pressed in the deliciously junky grilled cheese sandwich, zipped up with hot sauce and half-sour pickle slices. Dip $5, sandwich $6.