The Redhead (CLOSED)

Chef Meg Grace’s East Village gastropub offers Spotted Pig style (amber-colored lights, rustic wooden tables) with a Deep South sensibility. While starters, like plump shrimp and spicy andouille atop rustic buttery grits, are manageably portioned, entrées are huge. The oddly compelling “Deviled Bones”—essentially cured, breaded, chicken-fried pork ribs—are served in a daunting stack with cool peach-cabbage slaw underneath. Polish them all off and you may make the mistake of skipping out on the signature Ho Ho dessert, a delicious upmarket facsimile of the Hostess classic featuring a devil’s-food spiral around salted caramel cream.