The Euro-rock soundtrack is not a natural fit with the older, moneyed crowd or with the abstract murals, whimsical chandeliers and huge flower arrangements here. Grown-up clients are likely drawn by the homemade pastas—perfectly balanced pappardelle and venison ragù or spinach-and-ricotta-filled ravioli in a black-truffle sauce—as well as by brick-oven pizzas in two dozen or so varieties. Other entrées, like a striped bass fillet with bay scallops and butternut squash, can be pricey, overworked and lifeless. Wine prices are high too, though the selection is vast. Desserts, including a slow-cooked ricotta cheesecake (no eggs) and homemade ice cream, are simple and delicious. P.S. The waitstaff fawns over the aging regulars but often ignores newcomers.