Photograph: Virginia Rollison
Photograph: Virginia Rollison |

Shrimp-and-snowpea-leaf dumplings at RedFarm

Best dim sum provocateur: RedFarm

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New York has a long lineage of Chinese restaurants, from midtown’s swank stalwarts to the regional bastions of Flushing and thousands of humdrum joints in between. But restaurateur Ed Schoenfeld and chef Joe Ng, the Don King and Muhammad Ali of dim sum, blasted open the takeout box this year by bringing farm-to-table zeal to bear upon the ancient cuisine. The pair broke new ground, trotting out succulent dumplings and variations on other dim sum standards alongside nouveau creations like pastrami-stuffed egg rolls and miso-glazed filet mignon in crispy tartlet shells. Schoenfeld packed his communal wood tables with a crowd of food-world dignitaries, proving that China’s centuries-old eats could be as thrilling as any New Nordic maverick. RedFarm, 529 Hudson St between Charles and W 10th Sts (212-792-9700, redfarmnyc.com)

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