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The stylish decor is offbeat and whimsical: flower-painted orange and lime-green walls and tasseled curtains draped across the top of the floor-to-ceiling windows. Light kofta, made with lentil, red pepper and cracked wheat, are perfect with a squeeze of lemon, and the tender chunks of calf’s liver are terrific rolled inside a hot pita. The lamb has a mild tomatoey tang, and the grilled whole branzino is nicely charred. Squares of buttery baklava are deceptively small but immensely filling.
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