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This East Village hole-in-the-wall serves fine budget burgers, griddled to order by a grease-splattered cook—as they should be ($16 designer burgers are becoming a bit of a yawn). The house-special Iron Horse burger—two patties with grilled onion and strong horseradish cheddar—is a delicious, sinus-clearing concoction. It goes awfully well with a side of extra-crispy onion rings and a thick chocolate shake, blended behind the bar by the waiter (who is also the bartender and host). We think chefs should get back to cooking real food and leave the burgers to dives like Black Iron, which thankfully do little else.