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Chef Rob Newton is one of New York’s great Southern-cuisine champions, from the comfort-food–focused Smith Canteen to the fried-chicken kitchenette Wilma Jean. Now the Arkansas native combines Southern cooking with New American leanings at this 102-seat Downtown Brooklyn restaurant, named after the American hardwood tree. Dishes include winter mushrooms with tofu skins and Calabrian chili; braised turkey in broth with hominy and fried onions; and East Coast fish muddle (seafood stew) with potato chips and bacon.