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Chef-owner Alim Maruf’s inventive, market-driven French cuisine is as well executed as the comestibles found on some like-minded menus across the East River. A frisee salad cradles rich duck confit, and tender rings of calamari are seared with onion and garlic to beautiful effect. Entrées are simple and satisfying—try the shell steak, deftly grilled and paired with sautéed potato. Laurent Tourondel, meet your outer-borough match.