The century-old oven downstairs produces beautiful, crusty breads, but the real magnet at this window-walled, congenially noisy spot is the lengthy something-for-everyone menu. Cross-cultural nibbles are grouped into categories: vegetables, cheeses, cold cuts and salads. Soups, sandwiches and entrées (including lots of bistro basics like leeks in mustard vinaigrette and marrow bones in red wine sauce) are all expertly prepared. The wine list offers somewhat expensive selections by the glass. Big groups can request one of the semiprivate, brick-lined alcoves downstairs.
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