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The small-plate trend is so established that the pros and cons are obvious. Bonus: more sharing, better wine lists. Liability: complex menus. This Cobble Hill eatery, with a long concrete bar and floor-to-ceiling windows, indeed offers an extensive Italian wine selection—more than 50 by the bottle and 16 by the glass. Earthy veal-and-porcino meatballs and tramezzini with paper-thin sliced mortadella, pickled red onion and pecorino are some favorites of the grazing-friendly menu.