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Upstairs, past the quick-meal and take-out counter, an airy dining room provides a soothing alternative to more frenetic local spots. Lunch is a low-cost, bountiful buffet. Come dinner, well-made tandoori and curry dishes complement intriguingly spiced Goan specialties such as coconut-flavored chicken xacutti and peppercorn-spiked slow-cooked lamb, as well as Northern dishes like the subtly sweet Dhaka Hazi (goat biryani), named for the Bangladeshi capital. The dining room is often closed for private parties, so call ahead.