BonChon Chicken (CLOSED)

Think Asian-style KFC at this downtown Korean fried-chicken spot. Choose from small, medium or large portions of wings, drumsticks or tiny boneless breast strips, and one of two sauces (tangy soy-garlic or a not-so-spicy spicy). In a concealed kitchen, the chicken is dredged in a light coating of flour, and deep-fried not once, but twice to order. When your bird is ready, a metal door swings open and out slides a cute bag that contains your hot meat, some middling Asian slaw and a sweet—but cold—buttered roll. Chow at one of four communal tables, take it to go, or have it delivered. The Colonel doesn’t do that.