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The dining room, decorated with mirrors and golden trinkets, remains quiet most weeknights. Good news for us. Ample portions of savory food include such appetizers as charbroiled steak with “spices sauce” and a tangy salad of warm grilled shrimp with lime and onion. Resist standards like pad thai, and order the steamed whole fish with vegetables, plum and ginger. The gracious, formally dressed staff adds to the warmth.