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Blue and white walls, painted ceiling beams and TVs tuned to European soccer matches give the entrance a small-town Italian feel; upstairs, the dining room is grander, with high ceilings and a wide wood-burning fireplace. Grilled shrimp and fat white beans drizzled with olive oil make a tasty starter, as does a tumble of arugula hiding sliced red beets and dabs of goat cheese. A special of seafood risotto, regrettably bland and gummy, was whisked away at a word and replaced with a bowlful of al dente bucatini, covered with a thick sun-dried tomato and artichoke sauce. Grilled orata, another special, was sweet and moist, presented whole at the table, then tidily deboned out of sight.