Braeburn (CLOSED)

This confused eatery straddles the line between destination dining and neighborhood joint. The country-tavern look is reinforced with a wholesome, if bland and expensive, menu from chef Brian Bistrong (the Harrison). His smoked brook-trout starter, served with an apple and pear relish, was virtually flavorless. A $29 “rack of pork” entrée featured an enormous, well-done pork chop served atop run-of-the-mill bacon-flecked cabbage. Even the homespun desserts failed to offer much comfort. Watery banana pudding made us pine for the better version at Magnolia Bakery.