'Cue savant Daniel Delaney—who gained a cultish following with his online venture, Brisketlab—serves Central Texas-style smoked meat at this roadhouse joint. Inspired by Southern grocery shops, Delaney outfitted the counter-service spot with handmade benches and a glowing neon sign. The toque pulls pork and beef ribs, brisket and sausage from an ancient wood-fired smoker, which burns timber shipped in from the Lone Star State. Stuff your meat in a soft slice of homemade white bread, and get a salad or coleslaw on the side. Local and rare bottled beers are on offer, as well as Blue Bottle drip coffee. Finish your meal with homemade pie: Flavors—including seasonal varieties such as pumpkin, pecan and blueberry—rotate each week.