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Review
This old-timey soda fountain on idyllic Henry Street calls to mind two Grease-style sweethearts, sipping out of a shared straw while they kick their legs beneath the counter. That’s not wrong, necessarily, with a menu that features chocolate and vanilla egg creams, cherry-lime rickeys and malted milkshakes. Luckily, the Sir Twix-a-Lot sundae, with chunks of shortbread, cold caramel and fleur de sel and the 99 Problems, with a brownie, chocolate ice cream, an entire vanilla milkshake and a dark chocolate shell, ground us firmly in the post-poodle-skirt present. Still, you can share a float with your sweetheart or order a Dubai sundae with two spoons.
The vibe: Inside an actual former apothecary, the charming tiled floors and glass domes of cakes to gawk at feel pleasantly old-fashioned. Rows of wooden apothecary drawers line the walls, and a vintage soda fountain holds pride of place; on a weekend night, it’s half local families and half swooning couples on a date to a sundae destination.
The food: Serving up scoops of Adirondack Creamery ice cream in simple flavors like chocolate, vanilla and strawberry, the magic comes alive when the ice cream arrives in their outrageous sundaes. Even though they’re served in classic silver dishes, everything—including their banana split—is a little different. The Bandana Split comes with vanilla, chocolate and coffee ice cream, a whole banana (natch), plus hot fudge, caramel, whipped cream and a cherry. If you’re finding it hard to choose, go for the sweet-and-salty Potato Head with housemade peanut butter, North Fork potato chips and a drizzle of caramel over vanilla.
The drinks: Try a float from the soda fountain (there are 15 on offer, with flavors like hibiscus, cherry cola and coffee soda), or go for one of their milkshakes, swirled thick with fresh strawberry compote; fudge, marshmallow and graham crackers; or a shot of espresso.
Time Out tip: They serve beer and wine, plus spiked spritzers and floats, for those who like to blur the line between “dessert” and “nightcap.”
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