The name means “grandma” in Yiddish, but to celebs, punksters and stroller-pushers who wait all morning for a table, it means brunch. The sun-blasted restaurant, originally a pie kitchen, has morphed into an all-day gourmet picnic; at the front, insulated from the pram parking lot, is the bar. The fluorescent dessert cases and gaudy floral wallpaper will fade after one of the mimosa flights (classic, grapefruit-lemonade, blood orange) or pickle-brined Bloody Marys. Top off your buzz with Bubby’s mile-high apple pie, then stick a fork in it — you’re done for the day.
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