Bunker

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With its blaring hip-hop and skater dudes manning the woks, this thatch-trimmed bungalow, which debuted in January, may seem more Brooklyn than Queens. The second you bite into the Saigon Special ($6.75), you might wish it resided there, too, instead of way-out-there Ridgewood. The sandwich is a swine lover’s dream in house-made cha lua ham, crispy bacon, cinnamon-heavy sausage and five-spice pork pâté with a sriracha kick—the handiwork of Thai-born brothers Jimmy and Jacky Tu, who earned their stripes at Eleven Madison Park and Korilla BBQ, respectively. And the siblings dispatch plenty of other trekworthy street eats, both traditional—seared bo luc lac beef cubes crowned with toasted peanuts and fried garlic ($11)—and modern: Crab spring rolls come sheathed in Chinese egg-roll wrappers instead of standard rice paper ($7.50).