With shrimp-and-grits staple Mama Joy’s bowing out of
Bushwick, it makes way for a restaurant with roots touching even farther south: Ethiopia. Founded by Sam Saverance and Ethiopian expat Liyuw Ayalew, the wandering
vegan pop-up—running in North Brooklyn since 2011—hosted African lunches out of Mama’s vacant space starting in July 2013 and is now setting up shop permanently. The brick-walled joint honors Ethiopia—widely hailed as the birthplace of coffee—with traditional
coffee ceremonies and live Abyssinian music. Java is made in a
jebena pot and infused with cloves and cardamom, served with snacks like
ambasha bread or roasted barley. Those looking for heartier options can dig into vegetarian plates, served on a bed of
injera bread, like
misir wot (red lentils in berbere sauce),
keysir selata (sautéed and chilled beets) and
shiro (garlicky ground chickpeas). Along with pureed juices (mango-avocado-papaya), beverages include Ethiopian beers (Castel, Harar),
tej (honey wine) and cocktails, such as a whiskey-spiked Shai spiced tea.
1084 Flushing Ave between Irving and Knickerbocker Aves, Bushwick, Brooklyn (347-295-2227)