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Try to grab seats in the candlelit upstairs dining room of this modest Japanese restaurant, where chef Seiji Hanahashi offers 154 items. The presentations are fetching, the fish is impeccably fresh, and the flavors are robust: In the whitefish tempura, jalapeño mayo, tomato and asparagus converge in one roll. To taste the range of options, order some of the yakitori (gizzard, thigh, breast, liver) and perhaps a more unusual protein like grilled prime beef tongue.