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True dim sum connoisseurs head straight to Flushing. At C&J, a predominately Chinese crowd jostles to snag seat numbers from the hostess, which she’ll later shout out in Chinese dialect. (If you don’t speak the language, try making eye contact and looking expectant.) Rice noodles are fried to a savory brown; shrimp-stuffed green peppers come in a spicy chili sauce; roasted-pork buns are wrapped in a flaky sesame crust.