Cabana

Waiting for a table at this crowded, no-reservations place is no day at the beach, but your mood will brighten once the food arrives—it’s generously portioned and surprisingly fresh and reliable for a chainlet (three in New York, one in West Palm Beach). Appetizers like the ceviche mixto, a tangy assortment of shrimp, scallops, octopus and calamari in a nicely restrained marinade, are followed by entrées such as the Coco Cabana Pollo, a heap of chicken breast and vegetables tossed in a spicy coconut curry. Fake palms, sunny yellow walls and constantly whirring blenders put everyone on island time, and the busy staff effortlessly copes with the crowd.