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For fresh Southeast Asian fare, squeeze into one of the well-worn tables in the teensy, lantern-festooned front room or a rustic bench in the candlelit tented back garden at this charming, cash-only spot. Simple and not-too-fussy dishes revolve around well-executed familiar flavors, as in a starter of grilled bean sprout-and-carrot-stuffed tofu, burnished with a crispy, golden skin and drizzled with a citrusy peanut sauce. Creamy avocado and fried soft-shell crab make a winning combination in a summer-roll appetizer. Better yet are the entrées: A clay pot intensifies the heady perfume of kaffir lime leaves in a green curry with shrimp, and wok-seared bites of beef are succulent and savory. Sticky rice with banana slices and coconut milk provide a comforting finale.