Cafe Greco (CLOSED)

You can’t judge a book by its cover, but you can often gauge a restaurant by its clientele. More than half of the sizable crowd in Cafe Greco one night was well past retirement age, so it was no surprise that the cuisine was largely no-nonsense. Greek fish fare was the best—the sea bass was exceptionally succulent—and any diversion from it was unwise: Roasted filet mignon was unspectacular; the side of vegetables could have passed for Birds Eye.