Cafe Pasta (CLOSED)

It’s hard to understand how this spot survives in a borough so packed with good Italian food. Designed like an Italian version of a diner (desserts sit in a deli case in the front of the room), the exhaustive menu boggles the mind, but only after patrons are assaulted by the harsh, bright lighting and dingy, frayed carpeting. Aside from the surprisingly good lemony risotto, this eatery can’t deliver on its promises: The sad freezer-burned spedini we tried was like chewing on an old sponge (apparently you are supposed to lubricate the dish with the lemon wedge that has seen better days). You might think the pizza’s good, as they offer eight different kinds. But when we inquired which was tastiest, the waiter yawned, “I don’t eat pizza.” With at least four other good Italian eateries within spitting distance (and you might want to spit), you’re better off elsewhere on Hylan Boulevard.