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All the omens are good: pretty shades of sage, rose and lemon; well-spaced tables; understated, graceful service. And top to bottom, the menu is solid. Empanadas are not too heavy; filet mignon is magnificent, especially under a blanket of potent herb sauce. Vatapa, a cashew-topped halibut fillet in ginger sauce, is more elegant than the usual seafood afterthoughts at such T-bone temples. Ronda’s dulce de leche crêpe would break the will of even the most devoted dieter.