Café Un Deux Trois

Now in its fourth decade, this perennial pretheater destination just off Times Square has a slightly crumbling-kitsch decor, with faux-marble Corinthian columns and a trompe l’oeil ceiling that ain’t fooling anybody. (You can draw an equally convincing skyscape on your paper tablecloth with the crayons the bistro provides.) Fancy French cuisine this is not, but the brasserie menu has its fortes, such the petatou de chevre, a warm little tower of goat cheese and sliced potato, served on a bed of salad greens.