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The grand, loft-size dining room in Tribeca is as impressive as ever, but the French country cooking isn’t quite as reliable as it once was. Served by a well-intentioned but not particularly menu-savvy staff, a flavorful vegetable terrine and a downy-light hazelnut soufflé were wonderful, but entrées like dry roasted duck and pedestrian filet mignon fell flat. One other thing remains the same: Twenty years ago, this was a popular place to entertain your parents (or vice versa), and it still is.