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This tiny Moroccan bistro is an unlikely gem in Murray Hill. Chef Lahcen Ksiyer offers some fine Gallic and Spanish fare on his multinational menu, but the iconic dishes of his native Morocco—b’steeya, or shredded chicken and almonds wrapped in a thin, flaky crust; Couscous Royale, tossed with raisins, root vegetables, caramelized onions, grilled merguez sausage, and stewed chicken and lamb—are the real reasons to visit. To find better homespun North African cooking, you’d have to travel to Paris or Casablanca—or at least the far reaches of Brooklyn or Queens.
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